Tasting wines side-by-side is my favorite way to explore a region. Thanks to a colleague who loaned me his Coravin, I was able to do just that without pulling all three corks.
This lineup imported by Friuli Italian Wines brings us an array of examples of unique northern Italian wines in three very different styles: a classic white, a skin-contact (aka slightly-orange) white, and a unique red made of a grape variety I’ve never experienced before.
Shall we taste?!
Bortolusso Malvasia 2018
San Gervasio - Carlino, Friuli-Venezia Giulia
The vineyards of this family-run winery are located in close proximity to a lagoon. The interaction with the sea salted air provides notes of saline and minerals, adding a complexity and savoriness that makes this wine perfect for food pairing. Grilled seafood or risotto, anyone? The team uses organic fertilizers and minimum residue pesticides to keep the vines as pure as possible.
Comprised of 100% Malvasia, this wine is made in a dry style typical of this part of Italy. However, you may have encountered an expression of this grape, which is grown historically in Mediterranean regions, by the name ‘Malmsey’ from the island of Madeira in a traditional sweet wine.
In this case, the wine is lemon-yellow in color with notes of underripe stone fruit like apricot and peach and a nuttiness that adds to its complexity. I quite like that. This one inspires saliva below the tongue and leaves my mouth with an essence of orange peel on the finish. Excellent balance at 13% ABV. At $18.00 this is a very approachable option for the summer days ahead. I’d keep this in the fridge but set it out to drink without an ice bath to allow a broader spectrum to flavors and aromas to surface.
Specogna Pinot Grigio ‘Ramato’ 2019
Friuli Colli Orientali D.O.C
I find much of the Pinot Grigio in today’s market to be one-dimensional and a bit boring. Not so with this bottle. The copper color is imparted by a 48-hour maceration with the skins. Orange wine is quite popular lately. It’s a trend, like ‘natural wine’, that sometimes has me scratching my head. However, when done in this style, I find it to be absolutely exciting. It takes a simple variety like Pinot Grigio to new heights of interest and complexity by making the most of the natural material without overdoing it.
For me, the nose of this wine does not do justice to the palate. New flavors and aromas erupt when you get this in your mouth! The mouthfeel is soft, almost creamy, which may be an indication of lees-aging, although I can’t confirm this. Excellent acid structure and balance with an ABV of 13.5%. Flavors of apples and pear, but also wild berry, which I don’t often find in Pinot Grigio. I wondered if I was tricking myself by focusing too much on the color, but I don’t think so. Sustainably produced both in vineyard and cellar, I can say this is one of the better expressions of this grape variety I have had the pleasure of tasting. At $27.00 a bottle, it may hit a touch above what you’re used to spending on Pinot Grigio, but if you’re willing to trust me, I doubt you’ll be disappointed. In a word: delicious.
Castelvecchio Terrano 2017
Carso, Friuli-Venezia Giulia
I absolutely love it when I encounter a wine made of grapes I have never tasted and from a place I’m barely familiar with. This is how we discover the world through wine! Smelling, tasting, researching, and reflection temporarily transport us to the place of origin and for a moment, we’re traveling again!
The Carso region, also called ‘Karst’, refers to the plateau that straddles the border of northeastern Italy and southwestern Slovenia. While I’ve tasted wines aged in Slovenian oak, the Terrano grape variety is a new experience. The Castelvecchio winery has been producing since 1750, but evidence of vineyards and olive trees in the region can be traced back to 1578. Sustainable, low-impact viticulture is practiced here on arid, rocky soil with red sand. The Terrano variety is closely related to Refosco, a grape I actually have tasted from Friuli.
The wine is ruby red with a purple rim and stains the glass when swirled. The producer website states that the color “confirms its high organoleptic qualities given by the presence of very high units of antiradical, anti-aging, polyphenols, antioxidants and antivirals.” I don’t know enough about this subject to speak to this, but it piques my curiosity, which I appreciate in and of itself.
The palate offers red raspberry all day with notes of red licorice and bramble. The acid here is striking and has me thinking a slight chill would serve this quite well, as would a few more years in bottle. If I were trying to give someone a tasting example of malic acid, this would be a great place to start. The wine is aged in stainless steel and at 12.5% ABV it’s an easy drink to enjoy in the early afternoon. Unfortunately, this wine is sold out on the Friuli wines website at the moment, but you can explore other options from the same producer here.
Perhaps I’ve found some wines that interest you too. If so, I invite you to give them a try and geek out with me! The first five people to enter the code WINESHIP20 will save 20% on their online order at https://www.friulitalianwines.com/. I would love to hear your impressions if you do taste, and also if you have experience with similar wines from this part of Italy.
Many thanks to Evelyn, Alex, and the Friuli Italian Wines team for this experience! Mille Grazie! - Montana