Alsace, France - September 2015

Jean-Baptiste Adam: Ammerschwihr
September 30, 2015

A shot of the entrance to the reception area at Jean-Baptiste Adam winery

The drive from Epernay to Ammerschwihr took almost four hours. It was dark for most of the drive, as we didn't leave the home of Michell Mailliard until after 6 o'clock. After the third hour the road began to wind and I could see the silhouette of pine trees against the night sky. My sense of the mountains being close by was confirmed when I went through the first of three tunnels. The air was colder and I was reminded of the essence of my home in Colorado.

Alsace sits on the eastern edge of France bordering Germany and Switzerland. In fact, it belonged to Germany from 1871 to 1919. The wines produced here are frequently confused with the wines of Germany, as there are many similarities in the bottle shapes, labeling style and varieties. The important distinction between the wines produced in Alsace and those that come from Germany is that 90% of Alsatian wines are totally dry, while German wines, particularly Rieslings, are much more frequently made in a sweet style. My brief visit to Alsace was worth the extra hours behind the wheel. I found it to be totally unique compared to the France I had experienced in Paris, Reims, Epernay and the many villages of Champagne in between. The architecture of Alsace is much closer in style to what you would expect to see in Germany and Switzerland. The sloping roofs and colorful painted shutters and trip reminded me of beer drinking more than wine. 

Since I arrived late, I headed straight to the apartments I had rented via Airbnb (check it out!) in the town of Wintzenheim, about 12 minutes from the winery of Jean-Baptiste Adam. Early the next morning I headed to the winery to meet Jean-Baptiste for a tour. I could see my breath in the crisp September air and I remember pulling an extra layer out of my suitcase. As I walked up to the entrance I noticed stacks of heavy duty green plastic bins. The harvest was in full swing and the winery was buzzing as the staff worked busily cleaning out the bins that had been used to carry grapes from the vineyards to the winery. The commotion seemed a bit like a teaser for the experience to come.

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Heavy-duty green plastic bins used to bring the harvested grapes from the vineyard into the winery

Once inside it didn't take long for Jean-Baptiste to arrive. A tall man with a gentle face, I had met him the year before at a wine tasting event in Denver. He was so excited to have a visitor from the United States taking an interest in his family's winery. I felt hyper-aware and honored that he would take the time to personally show me the winery, especially during this critical time of year. Why so humble? The Adam family has been producing organically grown, biodynamic wines in Alsace since 1614. The traditions seeping through every surface of this amazing place are four centuries and 14 generations in the making. 

One of the enormous foudres, or oak vats used for fermentation at Jean-Baptiste Adam

A photo of one of JB Adam's staff members climbing in and out of the foudre to clean it

The facility was unlike anything I had been before. The most striking presence is certainly that of the massive foudres, or oak barrels positioned through the stone walled winery. These things are massive and hold a ton (3,150 liters in the one to the left) of juice as it ferments into wine. The foudres are so well-made and robust that they have been used at the winery for decades. They are neutral at this point and give little flavor to the wines. When fermentation is complete and the wines are transferred to either barrels of bottles for aging, the foudres must be cleaned. To do this, a person has to get inside via the tiny door at the bottom. I can't image how claustrophobic I would feel being inside a dark barrel with such a small way in and out! I noticed some crystal-like conglomerates set about the room. When I asked what they were, Jean-Baptiste explained they are tartrates, or wine diamonds, which naturally occur in the wines and are removed when the foudres are being cleaned. Some older equipment still sits in the winery for the sake of posterity. The history of this place is simply magical.

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To the left, an old press that still sits in the winery. To operate this, the grapes were poured into the top and two men pushed the levers to drive the press and separate the juice into the vat below. Above, an image of the tartrates, or wine diamonds, taken from inside the foudres. 

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Production of the wines at Jean-Baptiste Adam has come a long way in four centuries. Today, they are using top of the line technology in the winery and vineyards, but the spirit of tradition is alive and well and influences every decision Jean-Baptiste and his family make regarding their wines. 
After the tour, Jean-Baptiste invited me to his cellar to view his incredible collection of library wines. It was amazing to see how a particular vintage seemed to bring a distinct and special memory to Jean-Baptiste. He searched around for a bottle of my vintage, 1987, but without luck. He gifted me a bottle or 1986, the closest he had. This was the only bottle I brought back from the entire trip and one I have yet to open.

Jean-Baptiste and I in the cellar

The incredible Adam family tree

Library wines in the cellar

Old vintage Riesling

Around noon my visit with Jean-Baptiste came to a close as he had some other business to attend to during the bustle of harvest. He sent me down a road that wound through his incredible vineyards and brought me to an restaurant where I had an insane, four-course lunch and tasted some more delicious Alsatian wines. After my meal. I drove the wine route and let myself get a little lost in the incredibly beautiful vineyards and villages of the region. From there, I headed to Burgundy...

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Wines to Try

Jean-Baptiste Adam Pinot Gris Reserve 2015
This is an incredible place to start your experience of these wines. The reserve designated shows that the wine was made using only the very best fruit from that harvest. This wine is fresh, having fermented in stainless steel vats with no oak. It's a brilliant yellow-gold color with stone fruit. 

Jean-Baptiste Adam Brut Rosé Cremant d'Alsace 
I can't say enough about how much I love love love this wine. It's not sweet at all but it's decadent and is pure strawberries and cream on the palate. The bubbles are fine and delicate and persistent. It's made of 100% pinot noir fermented in the century old foudres.

Jean-Baptiste Adam 'Les Natures' Pinot Noir 2013
The 'Les Natures' line from JB Adam is all organic. This pinot noir is the only red wine they make and it is positively stunning. The fruit is not as earthy as Burgundy and tasted very ripe and red. I love this wine vintage after vintage when I can find it. It's ready to drink young!